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More than half of the 48 looks Véronique Nichanian showed for her fall 2016 Hermès men’s wear collection – staged against the inky-blue night sky of Paris as seen through the glass-walled Maison de la Radio – were worn with sneakers in Hermès orange. The high-end trainers are a new introduction at the home luxury leather-goods founded as a saddlery to the French carriage trade.
SEE ALSO: NEW LONDON LUXURY HOTEL BY FORME UK
Five of the first looks at Alessandro Sartori’s show for Berlutti – staged in the gilded Pavillon de Marsan at the Louvre Musée des Arts Décoratifs – included thick-soled brogue trainers or formal shoes brought own a peg with topstitched patterns created by Scott Campbell, a New York City tattoo artist with a super-celebrity phone tree.
Virtually everything that the designers Kris Van Assche presented in his Dior Home show – staged in a swank tennis club founded in 1895 – drew inspiration from clothes inspired by street style, the kind of utility grab the skate rats who hang out around Supreme tend to wear.
As technically impeccable, in a way, as were the clothes design by these three unalike talents, something about their shows went collectively amiss. Likely it had to do with the assignment.
It has been a while since the home luxury of goods started a mad scramble for ways to part the young new rich from their money. The formula they’ve tended to settle upon is the old high-low: that million-dollar suit worn with a pair of Stan Smiths.
A problem develops when, instead of being reasonably priced kicks with a great heritage back story, the sneakers you offer also cost a million bucks. Irony is essential to high-low dressing: it works only when something exclusive and costly is taken down a notch by something cheap enough for hoi polloi.
Sometimes the pleasures of contrast are lost when all a designers can come up with are cargo pants or jackets in lumberjack checks or huge trousers with little design logic beyond the fact that volume is a theme of the season – accompanied by a canned spiel about street inspirations, as at Dior Homes.
SEE ALSO: LASVIT INTRODUCES CANDY COLLECTION AT MAISON ET OBJET 2016 PARIS
And it’s less than satisfying to see abundant tailoring talents of someone like Mr. Sartori at Berluti diverted toward such trickery as a jacket with double layers of lapels, a gimmick one critic refer to as the shoplifter look.
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